Question:

Our local low-cost spay-neuter clinic is offering free Esterilsol for neutering. What do you think of this new procedure?

J. and J.H., Fort Worth, TX Jun 25, 2012

Answer:

Esterilsol is a zinc gluconate solution that is injected one time only into each testicle to shut down sperm maturation and transportation -- it's a kind of chemical vasectomy. However, dogs still produce testosterone.

One benefit of surgical castration under short-acting general anesthetic is that the vet does not run the risk of making a wrong injection, as can happen with Esterilsol, leading to severe inflammation, ulceration and the urgent need for remedial surgical castration. This would be disastrous for dogs who are set free immediately after injection, as is happening in some countries where this product is being used as an alternative to surgical castration.

With either neutering procedure, dogs should be held for a few days prior to release for observation after injection -- which I do not see in the manufacturer's protocol -- and to allow for healing after surgery. After the injection, pain and swelling can be severe for some dogs, and it can last for up to a week. This is a problem even with the most careful adherence to the manufacturer's protocols, as I have learned evaluating this product some years ago when it went under the name of Neutersol. I vetoed it then, as I veto Esterilsol now. Surgical castration can be safer, even in tropical countries, and surgically neutered dogs with lowered testosterone suffer fewer fight injuries.

Better alternatives to using hormonal implants and a birth control vaccine are being developed to help address pet overpopulation in many countries. For more details, visit the Alliance for Contraception in Cats and Dogs.

Question:

We have a male Westie who turned 10 in July. We feed him Science Diet and Bil-Jac dry food. We also mix in 1/4 of the tin of Cesar's wet food.

Our dog has scabs all over his underside. This is the third bout in 10 years. Our vet told us to bathe him twice a week with KetoChlor medicated shampoo and scratch the scabs off. I have been doing that, and I try to remove all the scabs each time, but they just seem to be coming back. He has started licking his front paws to the point where he has licked the hair off.

Should I change his dog food and give him some sort of medication? Would you please tell us what we could do to get rid of the scabs and stop the licking?

S.S., Benbrook, TX May 28, 2012

Answer:

Your dog may have a food allergy or nutritional deficiency, either of which can result in secondary bacterial or fungal infection of the skin.

I would gradually transition, over five to seven days, onto a corn- and wheat-free diet. Give him a few drops of fish oil in his food, working up to a teaspoon daily. His condition may show gradual improvement within a few months. If not, then additional supplements (such as zinc, selenium and vitamin B-complex) may prove beneficial. Try a weekly bathing with human Selsun Blue medicated shampoo for one to two months.

Considering his age, there could be other health issues that need to be addressed, notably poor thyroid activity.

Question:

We have a 62-pound mixed-breed older dog -- he may be a chow, German shepherd or Lab. We've had him for 12 years, but he was a stray, so we're guessing he's about 13 years old.

He has been leaking feces for months now. Our vet felt inside, did blood work, took X-rays and put him on antibiotics. He guessed it could be cancer and recommended an ultrasound and/or MRI, but those are too expensive. The vet also suggested we feed our dog chicken and rice, which we did for several months. We then started mixing the chicken and rice with his dry food, but he never stopped leaking poop. He strains to defecate in the yard and just dribbles feces. On the patio, he is constantly licking himself, leaving fecal matter behind. We bathe him once a month and try to clean off his behind from time to time.

I've started giving him half an Imodium tablet daily, but my husband says I should not give him something that will "stop him up" when he already struggles to go. Despite the Texas climate, he can't come into the house anymore.

What are your thoughts on this? We have a 62-pound mixed-breed older dog -- he may be a chow, German shepherd or Lab. We've had him for 12 years, but he was a stray, so we're guessing he's about 13 years old.

He has been leaking feces for months now. Our vet felt inside, did blood work, took X-rays and put him on antibiotics. He guessed it could be cancer and recommended an ultrasound and/or MRI, but those are too expensive. The vet also suggested we feed our dog chicken and rice, which we did for several months. We then started mixing the chicken and rice with his dry food, but he never stopped leaking poop. He strains to defecate in the yard and just dribbles feces. On the patio, he is constantly licking himself, leaving fecal matter behind. We bathe him once a month and try to clean off his behind from time to time.

I've started giving him half an Imodium tablet daily, but my husband says I should not give him something that will "stop him up" when he already struggles to go. Despite the Texas climate, he can't come into the house anymore.

What are your thoughts on this?

N.F., North Richland Hills, TX Dec 20, 2011

Answer:

Your poor dog is suffering terribly, being sick and banished from the house. If he is not used to being outside for extended periods, he will be suffering emotionally from separation. You must ask yourself, why are you keeping him alive? I appreciate your patience and concern, but it sounds like he should be bathed daily and be brought indoors. A holistic approach to possible chronic colitis or inflammatory bowel disease is in order if the attending veterinarian did not consider these possibilities. For a searchable list of holistic veterinarian practitioners, visit www.ahvma.org.

I would suggest trial medications like Tylosin or metronidazole, along with probiotics and psyllium seed husks (1 to 2 tablespoons in a gruel of boiled brown rice or oatmeal and ground lamb or turkey). You can also add 2 tablespoons of aloe vera juice (available in health stores) to his food, and encourage him to drink soothing and healing peppermint tea.

If he does not improve on this kind of treatment in 10 to 14 days or with what a holistic veterinarian might recommend, he could have cancer -- the most common cause of death in dogs today. In that case, I would euthanize him rather than allow him to continue to suffer outside.

Question:

We recently lost our beloved dog, Ginger, to immune mediated hemolytic anemia (IMHA). We are heartbroken. She was only 8 years old.

We have had dogs all our lives and had never heard of this devastating disease. After researching it online, it seems that it's fairly common and is possibly brought on by overvaccination.

Ginger had no symptoms except maybe panting, but it was over 100 degrees here in Texas all summer, so that seemed normal. We lost her within 24 hours. After a large dose of steroids, she never made it as far as a transfusion. We now wonder if we should bother with vaccinations should we decide to rescue another dog.

G. & T.C., Granbury, TX Dec 19, 2011

Answer:

My condolences to you. I know how distressing it is to lose a beloved dog so suddenly and how helpless you feel because IMHA is usually fatal. For details on the connection between vaccinations and the genesis of autoimmune diseases in animals and humans, visit my website.

An 8-year-old dog should not need booster vaccinations every year (or even every three years in most instances), except for the mandatory anti-rabies vaccination. A blood titer test can be done to determine if any core vaccinations (canine distemper, parvovirus and hepatitis) need to be repeated. Vaccinations have their place in disease prevention. I would not hesitate to vaccinate any new dog or pup following the protocol set by veterinarians with expertise in vaccinology, immunology and the risks and benefits of vaccinations. These protocols are available on my website and in my books "Dog Body, Dog Mind" and "Cat Body, Cat Mind," published by Lyons Press.

Question:

We have a Jack Russell terrier named Piccolo. Our household always has a laugh, because when Piccolo wants something (food, toy, etc.), she will literally pray for it.

She sits on her bottom and lifts her two front paws into a praying position. Also, when we sing along to a song, Piccolo has her little bowwow solo.

C.G., Keller, TX Oct 30, 2011

Answer:

I appreciate the wonderful photo you sent me of Piccolo (great name!) sitting on her haunches with her forepaws together in front of her face. I wish newspapers could print some of the photos I receive from readers that capture their animals' often unique behaviors and quirks.

Assuming a posture as though she is praying is certainly a very inventive, solicitous gesture. Some dogs will sit up like Piccolo and bat or flutter their forepaws as though waving or signaling for attention. Others will move their snouts up and down while sitting up.

My interpretation of dogs joining in when people sing, or singing solo when they hear certain sounds or music, is that it is an ancient sound ritual, much like the choral howling of their wolf ancestors and yapping howls of their coyote and jackal cousins. This is one way that wild canids bond, communicate and express their souls: canine opera, indeed! For more insights, see the book I edited that includes studies by scientists from around the world, titled "The Wild Canids" (Dogwise Publications).

Readers' accounts of their cats' and dogs' antics are always welcome. They add to our understanding and appreciation of our four-legged companions.

Question:

A very basic question: How do I know when my cat has fleas if I do not actually see one crawling on her?

R.S., Houston, TX Sep 05, 2011

Answer:

The best test is to check for flea droppings on your cat using a fine flea comb. Fleas make poop that is like tiny flecks of shiny, black-brown coal dust in the fur of cats infested with fleas. The flecks turn brownish-red when you flea-comb or brush them off the cat onto a piece of white paper and add a drop of water. It's dried, flea-digested cat blood.

The simplest controls are to flea-comb your cat every day, especially if the cat gets outdoors. (One reason to make cats enjoy life indoors and never want or need to go outside, like my two formerly feral cats, is so they won't keep picking up fleas, and worse, outdoors.) If you trap a flea in the comb, dunk it in a bowl of sudsy water.

Vacuum carpets, all floor surfaces and all furniture where the cat sits and lies every three to five days to gather up flea larvae and hatchling fleas. Sprinkle these areas with Fleabusters borate powder. Put down clean sheets on the furniture for the cats to lie on.

Trap fleas with a low-wattage light suspended over a pan of sudsy water placed on the floor where there is the most cat traffic. Fleas are attracted to the warmth. This flea trap is very good when folks are away on vacation or getting ready to move into a new home.

Question:

I have a sweet 4-year-old tabby cat called Mitts. My problem is that she is very shy and always hides under furniture, especially when we have visitors --then she never comes out. Any suggestions to build her trust?

B.M., Houston, TX Aug 29, 2011

Answer:

Most cats like to get up on things, the higher the better so they can look down on the world. Get your cat a tall, non-wobbly cat condo and also secure some carpeted shelves on the walls so she can be off the ground and not feel so small and vulnerable.

Coax her to play with various cat toys, one of the best being a cane and string like a fishing pole with a bit of fur or feather tied on the end.

Her self-confidence might also be boosted by letting her explore outdoors (provided the neighborhood is quiet). Put her in a harness attached to a leash, so she can't run off if she spooks. Remember, you walk a dog as the leader, but you follow the cat on a leash.

Question:

We have a 4-year-old Lab/Sheltie mix. He recently started having seizures. The first one lasted about 30 minutes before his eyes cleared and he could walk. The other two lasted about 10 minutes.

The vet did bloodwork and said all his organs were fine. He advised putting him on phenobarbital, which would have some side effects, especially to his liver.

We would appreciate your thoughts and recommendations on this. It's a very scary thing for us to see our dog go through.

N.W., Decatur, TX Aug 07, 2011

Answer:

Seizures are not uncommon in certain breeds, which would indicate a genetic susceptibility. This can be associated with excitable temperaments and may be triggered by stress, such as a trip to the groomer or the veterinarian.

Some dogs have fewer and shorter seizures when given a diet free of wheat and other cereals, or a home-prepared diet devoid of chemical dyes and preservatives.

There can be an association in some breeds with adverse reactions to vaccinations that can include neurological problems, notably epilepsy. Older dogs with liver disease can also start to have seizures.

So, in addition to the preventive barbiturate medication, I would supplement a natural food diet with tryptophan, vitamin B-complex and a multimineral supplement, plus milk thistle (silymarin) and S-adenosylmethionine (SAM-e) to help protect the liver. Your veterinarian can advise you on the amounts to give, but as a rule of thumb you should give these human supplements twice daily in a dosage proportional to your dog's weight. Higher amounts are given for therapeutic rather than preventive purposes.

Think twice about "booster" vaccinations, and talk with your veterinarian about weaning him off the phenobarbital and trying such calming herbs as skullcap, valerian and a twice-daily drop or two of lavender oil on a bandanna around his neck.

Applying an icepack along his back during a seizure can help reduce its intensity and duration.

Question:

Would you know why my 4-month-old Boston terrier puppy will eat her food only off of the hardwood floor? She ate fine from a bowl the first three months, but now it's only on the floor. I discovered that she wasn't eating and I spilled some food on the floor and she ate it. I have tried several foods -- all the same experience. I have tried china bowls, plastic flat bowls and wooden bowls. I don't think licking the hardwood is good for her.

She also was chewing on her tail area a lot, but I changed her food and that seems better now.

M.W., Fort Worth, TX Jul 25, 2011

Answer:

Many dogs, especially those with short muzzles, have difficulty eating out of narrow and deep bowls, and most dogs have problems when the bowl or dish keeps sliding on the floor. Some dogs are like one of ours -- he likes to pick some food out of his deep and wide food bowl and put it on the floor to eat, so we set down a sheet of newspaper. Another of our old dogs suddenly developed an aversion to eating out of her deep and wide no-skid bowl and now prefers a shallow and wide soup dish. They both now prefer drinking from a bowl set in a metal frame with 9-inch-high legs. Some dogs, especially large ones and arthritic older ones, enjoy elevated food and water bowls so they don't have to reach down too far.

Experiment with your dog and avoid using plastic food and water containers that may contain bisphenols and other toxic chemicals.

Question:

Our daughter and her family have a 1-year-old female Russian Blue cat. They have a problem with her biting. She wants to bite their ankles when they walk past and, at other times, their hands. Is this typical for this cat breed, or are there other reasons for her behavior?

M.E.F., Hurst, TX Jul 10, 2011

Answer:

Please pass on this information to your daughter and family before they decide to get rid of their cat, if they haven't done so already. Leaving this behavior unaddressed could mean painful injuries and infections for family members, especially children.

The first step is to understand that this is not aggression but a young cat's desire to play. This is typical behavior for a young cat, regardless of breed, and reflects the animal's attempt to adapt to living exclusively with humans in an otherwise cat-deprived environment. The family must learn how to play with the cat, especially early in the evening (cat "crazy time"). Transfer the focus of the cat's game of ambush, bite and scratch from humans to interactive toys like a play wand (toy on the end of a fishing pole) that you animate. Check your pet store for a variety of toys to try.

The best solution would be to adopt a healthy, easygoing cat of about the same age so the two can entertain each other. Cats do best when they have the company of their own kind; humans cannot fully satisfy all their needs.

My book "Supercat: How To Raise the Perfect Feline Companion" (Howell Books) will be very helpful in educating your daughter's family about the ways and whys of cats.